Wine Pick of the Week: 2007 Gérard Bertrand La Forge Corbières

Wine Pick of the Week: 2007 Gérard Bertrand La Forge Corbières

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This week's wine is a little 'dark and brooding'

This January, we asked our team of experts — sommeliers, wine writers, and winemakers — to recommend the best wines to be drinking in 2013. Here's what our panelists recommended for the week of Feb. 11 — and it's the perfect way to kick off a week of wine and love.

2007 Gerard Bertrand La Forge; Corbières Boutenac, France; $70
"A delicious single-vineyard wine from the best region of Corbières, it is dark and brooding, rich, and dense with almost raisin-y flavors and a finish of nuts and savory spices. This would go well with wild boar, but, if you don’t have one available, a fall-off-the-bone veal shank would do."

Roger Morris, wine and food writer for The Daily Meal, Wine Enthusiast, and Town & Country and Sommelier Journal; co-author of The Brandywine Book of the Seasons

You can check out the full list for the year, and start planning your wine list ahead of time. Up next week: an alvarinho wine to warm you up.

2011 Gerard Bertrand from Languedoc-Roussillon

For comments from Bertrand and background on the tasting, see the blog post “Reconnoitering Roussillon” on Engaging the Senses

I’ve listed my tasting notes below as I made them during my day with Gerard Bertrand at Le Bernardin in New York. I’ve marked my favorites with one to three asterisks (*)

My favorite 2011 Gerard Bertrand wines are:

Gerard Bertrand's Château l"Hospitalitat in Languedoc-Roussillan

Grand Terroir Pic Saint-Loup

Tautavel Homage aux Vignerons

Domaine de Cigalus Red Blend

That's quite a lineup! Here is the complete rundown:

How One Winemaker Is Revolutionizing The Wine Industry In The South Of France

Wine runs in Gérard Bertrand’s blood. Just like his father Georges and grandmother Paule before him, the winemaking culture of the south of France – the world’s largest vineyard with more than 60 grape varietals producing all types of wines: white, rosé, red, sparkling and fortified – is deeply ingrained in his DNA. It was a destiny impossible for him to escape. Standing at nearly two meters tall, endowed with a lean, muscular frame and musical voice typical of the area, the 55-year-old is a force to be reckoned with. His 16 wineries in the Occitanie region employing over 320 employees sell hundreds of references and tens of millions of bottles per year. A reference in biodynamics, he owns 850 hectares of vineyards governed by the sustainable, holistic and ethical philosophy and is the largest in France certified by Demeter (the global biodynamic agriculture authentication organization).

Where it all started: the family domain of Château de Villemajou where Gérard Bertrand first learned . [+] about vinification from his father, Georges Bertrand

Photo courtesy of Gerard Bertrand

Incarnating the renewal of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, Bertrand is setting out to conquer the world. In 2000, his turnover was €34 million last year, it was €145 million, and his wines are sold in 175 countries, with Europe, North America and Japan being his most mature markets. His name has become a veritable brand: he’s number one in the world for biodynamic wines and the top seller of premium French wines in the US market. Proud of his region, he wants to reveal its very high potential and incredible diversity of terroirs: from high-altitude vineyards near the Pyrenees and the volcanic soils of Terrasses du Larzac to coastal estates overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. “This is my path,” he states. “I fell in love with the region. I had many options, but I didn’t care about the other options because my father taught me, I was happy and I was prepared. It’s more than a passion it’s a mission. I feel it in my heart and I enjoy it every single day.”

Acquired in 2002, the 1,000-hectare Château L’Hospitalet in La Clape, whose Grand Vin Rouge 2017 was named Best Red Wine in the World at last year’s International Wine Challenge competition, is Bertrand’s flagship. A former 13 th -century hospice, it is set on a ridge overlooking the Mediterranean and the charming fishing village of Gruissan known for its salt marshes. With its hotel, restaurant, domain tours, tasting cellar, wine boutique and summer jazz festival, it embodies the art de vivre of the Mediterranean and attracts 200,000 visitors annually, making it an important oenotourism destination of the region, but Bertrand’s wine empire stretches much farther. His first purchase was Cigalus in Fontfroide in 1995, then Château Laville Bertrou in Minervois-La Livinière in 1997, Domaine de l’Aigle in Roquetaillade in 2007, Château Aigues Vives in Corbières and Corbières Boutenac in 2010, Château La Sauvageonne in Terrasses du Larzac in 2011, Château de La Soujeole in Malepère in 2012, Château des Karantes and Château de Tarailhan in La Clape in 2014, Castellum in Carcassonne and Château des Deux Rocs and Clos du Temple in Cabrières in 2017. If the stars are aligned, he plans to buy more vineyards, and double in size in five years’ time. Unafraid of diving headfirst into the great unknown, choosing a new winery is a matter of intuition. “When I buy an estate, it takes me three minutes to fall in love or not,” he notes. “My first impression is always the best, and I can feel where I can make iconic wines.”

Food and wine come together at Château L’Hospitalet in La Clape

Having completed his first vinification at the age of 10, Bertrand already has 45 years of experience under his belt. He recalls, “My father said to me, ‘You know, Gérard, you are lucky because when you’ll be 50, you will have 40 years of experience.’” His father was one of the first to create and market super premium wines at a time when Languedoc was brushed aside for making mass-market products. It was only three decades ago that this image began to shift, and it has been a hard-fought struggle to eliminate preconceptions about Languedoc wines. Bertrand divulges, “My father was very wise because he was one of the first to understand the potential of the area and to have the ambition to reveal the region’s terroirs: Fitou, Corbières, Minervois, Saint-Chinian, Tautavel and so on.” In the ’60s and ’70s, the Languedoc region produced cheap table wine in bulk as demand was so high that winemakers focused on quantity rather than quality (the French were drinking from 150 to 500 liters annually), but Bertrand’s father was among the first to believe in the terroirs’ possibilities. Ahead of his time, it was important for him to explain to his peers that they had to rethink behaviors, reduce yields, pick grapes later and start to create a new winemaking process. In the ’70s and ’80s, his father convinced producers to bottle their best cuvées and to begin to promote and sell them. Then wine fairs in France launched to push Languedoc as a destination, and it was the commencement of the journey.

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At the age of 22, upon the death of his father in a car crash, Bertrand suddenly found himself at the head of the family business, taking over Château de Villemajou in 1987, while also pursuing a professional rugby career. He played for Racing Club Narbonne Méditerranée, then became team captain at Stade Français Paris Rugby, before retiring in 1994 to concentrate fully on wine. “I was a rugby player, and I had to manage both rugby and wine for eight years,” he reminiscences. “That means I worked 60 hours per week in the vineyards, and on top of that, I prepared myself for the rugby season. We played 40 games a year, and I lived like a monk for almost eight years. I was exhausted by the time I was 30. When I stopped playing, I decided to develop my wine career. I decided to create Gérard Bertrand Wines as an umbrella I had been inspired by visiting Mondavi in California, Antinori in Italy and Moueix in Bordeaux. My idea was to promote the south of France as a destination, and this is what we have done, but it was a long journey. For 25 years, it was a big battle because the south of France was not yet on the world wine map, and it was important for me to say you have another region to put on your list. Now we are the leader and the first French wine in the US market. We are number two in Canada. We are number one for biodynamic farming, which we started at Cigalus.”

Gerard Bertrand's first biodynamic wines were produced at Cigalus

Photo courtesy of Gerard Bertrand

However, back in 1987, the market in Languedoc was tough: prices were low and bottles hard to sell. There were already some very good wines, but the region’s overall image was still dire perhaps they were afraid of success, lacking a culture of excellence and held back by an inferiority complex in comparison with Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. Bertrand wanted high quality, but how would he achieve it? Rugby would show him the way. After discussions with Max Guazzini, president of Stade Français and a communications and marketing genius, he understood that he needed to break the rules, challenge stereotypes, and develop a strong brand and a rich range of wines, much more than a single domain. He traded grapes bought from winegrowers, which he bottled, then established his brand with proprietary wines that highlighted the terroir and were sold at higher prices. He learned through trial and error, not always doing things right, but he refused to compromise on the quality of his wines. Always thinking globally and not just in terms of France or Europe, he traveled and observed. He was able to buy new estates by developing good relationships with banks. Understanding the need to team up with other local producers and reinforce a shared identity, he wrote “South of France” on his wine labels, rather than an obscure name, which appeals to international audiences. Today, he sells more wines abroad than in France.

Along with other rugby players who had gone on to work in the food and wine business like the Camberabero brothers, Dominique Erbani, Claude Spanghero, Daniel Dubroca, Philippe Saint-André and Philippe Sella, they established the “Rugby Gastronomes” group, each selling a product that captured the taste of the terroir and showcased culinary and viticultural savoir-faire: foie gras from Le Gers, Castelnaudary cassoulet, local seasonal fruits, ravioli from the village of Romans, Pyrenees cheese and wines from the south of France. They learned what could be achieved if all members of the club banded together. Soon, major supermarkets like Carrefour, Leclerc, Système U, Auchan and Intermarché bought into their concept, his business was thriving and he was making high-level contacts within the French distribution network.

With his 850 hectares, Gérard Bertrand is the world leader in biodynamic viticulture today

Bertrand is a pioneer of organic and biodynamic farming on a large scale. Following the cycles of the moon throughout the winemaking year, from harvest to vinification and ageing to bottling, is expensive. It requires two to three times more employees to be in total connection with the vineyard to detect the first signs of illness without the use of herbicides, fungicides or insecticides. Finding the perfect equilibrium between mankind and nature, the farmer becomes deeply aware of the soil’s health. Biodiversity is paramount to maintaining the balance of the ecosystem: it is just as important to look after insects, wildlife and the microbial life of the soils as it is the vines. The basis of this agricultural method is the use of compost and biodynamized preparations with medicinal plants instead of chemical treatments, guided by the forces of the earth and the cosmos, as the influence of the moon, sun and stars during a plant’s growth cycle is key, especially the inner planets and celestial bodies closer to the sun (the moon, Mercury, Venus and Mars), and to a lesser extent the outer planets (Jupiter and Saturn). At the beginning, people thought biodynamics was a cult. Many now view it as the benchmark with its sustainable agricultural methods, preservation of the land and deep respect for the environment and terroir. When Bertrand first started, 745 hectares of vineyards in France were Demeter-certified now, that figure has risen to 6,553 hectares.

“We are all connected and we want also to share the message that nature is stronger and more intelligent than us,” he explains. “That means we have to understand and follow the rhythm and biorhythm of the cosmos and nature, to open our mind, soul and vision. You see the beauty and perfection of creation, and you understand that in the planet, you have all the ingredients to save a plant against illness. This is what we do and it’s worked. Now we have great expertise and more than 100 people dedicated to this program. It’s a source of joy for them because they don’t use chemical products anymore and can stay safe. You see many more insects, underground animals and birds. You feel that nature is happy, which is important, and you can get that also in a glass of wine because the energy is there. You cannot measure the energy in a glass of wine, but you can feel it. That means you move from only measuring something to feeling it.”

La Forge is a tribute to Georges Bertrand, who loved this plot of old Carignan, some of whose vines . [+] are more than 100 years old

Questioning how the moon and the planets and their interplay with the rocks and limestone in the soil impact the taste of wine, Bertrand understood that a great wine is connected to the universe that surrounds it. A believer of homeopathic medicine as he hasn’t taken antibiotics for the past 35 years, he decided to test out the teachings in the 1924 book, Agriculture Course, by Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture. So in 2002, he and his head of biodynamic viticulture, Gilles de Baudus, started experimenting with four hectares of vines at Cigalus by dividing the plot in half: two in biodynamic farming and two in conventional agriculture. Two years later, the benefits of biodynamics became clear: fewer diseases, no need for chemical products, more diversity of nature in the vineyards, grapes of greater freshness, vitality and minerality with a more intense taste, better wine quality with more ageing potential, better balance, low pH and much more energy in the glass. “You don’t need a glass of wine to stay alive,” Bertrand says. “When you drink a glass of wine, it’s for pleasure, emotion or sharing. We don’t have to make any more compromises with nature, the soil or subsoil. My philosophy is to respect the ecosystem, biodiversity and to leave a better planet for the next generations.”

Now he’s spreading the word and has inspired other winemakers and local cooperative wineries to do the same. Encouraging independent growers in Languedoc-Roussillon to shift their farming towards sustainability, enacting a 10-year plan to promote organically- or biodynamically-grown grapes, sharing his savoir-faire on conversion and guaranteeing the purchase of farmers’ crops in return, he provides producers with technical, organizational and economic support to achieve their goals. Believing in being the change, he even sells Change cuvées stemming from partner vineyards in conversion to organic farming. “We have more than 100 partners,” he relates. “When they are in the three-year conversion period, we encourage them and pay 90 % of the cost of their grapes to help them to change because when you move from conventional to organic agriculture, the first three years is when you have to invest the most money because you need to have more people working in the vineyard and to buy new materials.”

The square-shaped, temple-inspired bottle of Clos du Temple, the most expensive still rosé in the . [+] world

Photo courtesy of Gerard Bertrand

The wide range of Gérard Bertrand’s wines is simply stunning. There are half-bottles of Côte des Roses at $9.99, single-vineyard Le Viala 2016 for $74.99, eau de vie at €80, Clos d’Ora 2016 retailing for $250 and a magnum of Clos du Temple 2018 costing $390, which is the most expensive still rosé on the planet. Named after the Templars with its temple-inspired bottle featuring a square base and pyramid-shaped indentation, Clos du Temple 2019 was elected the Best Rosé in the World by Drinks Business magazine. Then there is Legend Vintage, Bertrand’s wine library of extremely rare vintages from 1875 to 1977 of natural fortified wines from the appellations of Maury, Rivesaltes and Banuyls priced up to €10,000. A child of the terroir, having spent almost all his life in Narbonne, Bertrand has always swam against the tide and forged his own path. With Covid-19 raging, he did what no one else could do and decided to proceed with his annual five-day jazz festival in July, which has become a major musical event contributing to the growth of the region’s culture and tourism since 2004. He admits, “It was so easy to say, ‘Forget this year, I’ll take a one-week vacation.’ But it was important to do it because people deserve it. If we respect some sanitary precautions, it’s important to make people feel happy and to deliver a message of hope because now the world is hard.”

Clos d'Ora is located over a geological point of convergence between limestone and marl soils, in . [+] which Syrah, Mourvèdre, old Carignan and old Grenache are cultivated in a nine-hectare vineyard tilled by horse and mule

Photo courtesy of Gerard Bertrand

Linked to the universe, just like his wines, Bertrand has added a spiritual dimension, opening hearts and minds to new experiences. Believing that wine should speak to the soul and evoke emotions, Clos d’Ora (“Ora” is Latin for “prayer”) occupies a special place in his heart. It was while walking in a plot of land bordered by dry stone walls in Minervois at an altitude of 220 meters and set below the ruins of an old sheep farm that he felt at one with nature, having a revelation in this magical place. After buying the site in 1997, he decided to transform it into a winery a decade later, having identified its potential as a great terroir able to create an exceptional wine that ages magnificently. The land had spoken to him and serves as a place for meditation and quiet reflection. Today, it’s a small nine-hectare vineyard plowed by horse and mule to foster connections between mineral, vegetal, animal and human, and between telluric and cosmic forces, with everything done by hand and an annual production of 10,000 bottles. Having the luxury of time, it was only in 2014 that the first vintage (2012) of Clos d’Ora was released with its deep ruby red color, uniting four local Mediterranean grape varieties: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan.

The Clos d'Ora maturing cellar

Bertrand discloses, “I fell in love with the beauty of Clos d’Ora, which is above a geological fault. You can feel a strong connection with the cosmos. To move from a great wine to an excellent wine, the difference is the terroir. Through Clos d’Ora, Clos du Temple or single-vineyard estates like La Forge or L’Hospitalitas that have unique terroirs, we deliver a sense of place, which means the message and the taste of somewhere.” With Clos d’Ora, he has created a wine symbolizing peace, love and harmony. Walking the talk, Bertrand’s holistic approach is even reflected in his lifestyle based on physical and mental well-being. He practices yoga and meditation daily, goes for morning jogs through his vineyards, limits his meat consumption and believes in the power of positive thinking. “I think it’s important to give meaning to your life, to know what do you want to do, why you are here and what is your mission,” he concludes. “You can do nothing or you can try to make some efforts to serve the planet and to use the time you’re here to share good vibes and good information because now we feel that we are in between change. A new paradigm is coming: less fear, more love – love for people, but also for Mother Nature.”

Wine: Re-discovering the south of France

Back to southern France again this week, as I find myself enjoying the wines from here more and more.

The fact that we have the highest wine taxes in the EU (by a long measure), means good value regions like Languedoc-Roussillon are everywhere in our off-licences and need to be explored.

The relatively stable climate here makes grape growing a little easier and young winemakers can find treasured plots of old vine carignan and grenache and old terraces to replant. Warm dry summers and mild winters also make this a very pleasant place to live and I’ve featured a couple of UK- and Irish-born winemakers that now live here such as Domaine la Sarabande and Domaine Begude, both imported by O’Briens.

Don’t think that the region is all blow-ins however, as young French winemakers are also arriving and the region has two of the France’s powerhouse winemakers in Domaines Paul Mas (Karwigs) and Gérard Bertrand. Bertrand is a particularly interesting given his dedication to bio-dynamic wine production and his ambition to bring the wines of the region to the highest level possible (eg, his powerful and complex La Forge — €65). Mas is moving in a similar direction and plans to go fully organic for his own estates.

One of Bertrand’s most interesting estates is Domain de l’Aigle in the foothills of the Pyrenees, one of the highest vineyards in the Languedoc at up to 500m above sea level. It rains a lot here and temperatures are lower with harvests a month later.

Bertrand has gone with chardonnay and pinot noir hoping to create a (value) Burgundy of the south.

Not too far away in the Hérault Department to the north is another cool climate Languedoc region — Terrasses du Larzac AOP where Delphine and Julien Zermott began making wine in the early 2000s. This small remote AOP was created in 2005 and at 350m above sea level with well drained clay-limestone soils produces fresh crisp wines with lovely tension and complexity.

The estate is farmed organically and is moving towards bio-dynamics.

Château l’Esparrou Cuvée Bisconte, Côtes du Roussillon 2015, France — €13.95

Stockists: O’Donovans, JJ O’Driscolls, Ardkeen, Searsons, 64 Wine, Baggot Street Wines, Independents.

A long established Roussillon producer (18th century) with a famous 19th century chateau that has welcomed guests such as Jean Cocteau and André Breton.

Bright red and black berry fruit aromas, soft and ripe on the palate with pleasing plum fruits, elegance, and a blackberry fruit tang.

Val de Salis Syrah, Pays d’Oc IGP, France — €8.99

Syrah originates in the Rhone (the Rhone-Alps region to be specific) and is best know for the concentrated long-lived wines of Hermitage.

These days syrah is grown everywhere and is more reliable than merlot or cabernet in my view.

This has some classic earthy dark fruit aromas, ripe soft fruits with good density and texture and lingering blackcurrant fruits.

Corbières Blanc Chatelaine de

St Auriol, Languedoc, France — €9.99

This is made with Roussane, another high quality Northern Rhone grape transplanted to the Languedoc.

Roussane is rarely boring thanks to its balance of fragrance, texture and acidity and although this is entry level it still has some of the grapes pleasing character.

Floral and herbal aromas (lemon verbena), soft citrus and ripe pear and lemon drop fruits.

Domaine du Pas de L’Escalette ‘Les Petits Pas’, Languedoc, France — €19.50

Stockist: Terroirs Dublin www.terroirs.ie

Les Petits Pas — ‘Little Steps’ — is named after the Zernott’s two sons who were born in the Languedoc after the couple’s wine adventure began.

A blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah, this has bright red fruit aromas and juicy supple red and darker fruits on the palate. Like all their wines (and the couple themselves), this is utterly charming.

Domaine de l’Aigle Pinot Noir 2014, Languedoc,

Stockist: O’Briens Douglas, Limerick and nationwide.

Domain de L’Aigle is near the village of Limoux with vines at 300-500m above sea level and relatively cool for the Languedoc, so perfect for complex Chardonnay and fine Pinot Noir Hand harvested, de-stemmed etc with a long maceration — red currant and soft fruit aromas, crunchy structured Pinot Noir with solid red-black fruit palate.

Domaine de L’Aigle Chardonnay, Limoux 2016,

Stockist: O’Briens Douglas, Limerick and nationwide.

From a cooler damper part of the Languedoc at one of the highest

vine-growing areas in the region.

The malo-lactic fermentation happens in new oak and gives the wine a smoky-vanilla undertone along with tropical ripe white fruits.

Complex apple-pear fruits on the palate, structured, elegant and fine and a good match for turkey or roast chicken.

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2014 Gerard Bertrand Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon

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2014 Gérard Bertrand Corbières Grenache

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  • 2014 Gérard Bertrand Corbières Grenache - Syrah - Mourvèdre | Vivino A Red wine from Languedoc-Roussillon, France
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The wines of Gérard Bertrand: Versatile and nicely

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Watch the video: Best Wines Online: Ste. Croix Corbieres Le Fournas 2009 (August 2022).